The chances are that you are not going to own any of this kit so the best option is to hire it from your local hire shop. If you pop in to your local branch and explain what you are doing they will get you sorted with the right kit for the job. With your drill and drill bit at the ready, get yourself in a comfortable position and put the centre drill of your arbour on the mark you made earlier for your vent hole.
Start drilling slowly and build up the speed. Let it and the core bit do the work. Also, periodically stop drilling to check your work and let the bit and drill cool down a bit. The centre pilot drill of your arbour should now have burst through the external wall so you can use this point to start again from the outside and drill towards the inside to finish. You may be asking yourself why you would do this, why not just drill straight through form the inside?
In answer to this, as a drill of this size bursts through when you get to the outside wall, the force that this happens at generally takes huge chunks out of the surrounding wall, causing a fair bit of damage. To prevent this form happening, you drill from the outside in so that you are left with a nice tidy hole.
If you are using the rectangular channel ducting then you are going to need to remove a brick or to. To do this see our removing and replacing a brick project here. With your hole drilled you can now get the external duct fixed in place. In most cases, your hood kit should include an external vent, associated pipework and internal duct connection. If not, you will need to get a kit yourself, something similar to the below should be fine.
Just make sure that the circular connectors on the internal wall plate are the same size as connection point on your cooker hood duct. Start by mounting the internal plate on the wall. Marks each of the fixing holes through the hole of the plate on to the wall so that you know where to drill. Put the plate to one side and, using a suitable masonry drill 6mm should be fine , drill out each hole, clear any debris and then insert a wall plug in each.
Before actually fixing the plate to the wall you will need to attach the section of pipe normally flexi pvc that runs through the wall to the mount. The fixings to do so should be supplied with the kit, if not, a large zip tie will do the trick. Thread the pipe through the wall to the outside and pop the plate back up on the wall and screw it into place.
Now head outside and repeat the above for the external plate, but this time you will need to pull the pipe as taught as possible and trim off any excess before fixing to the external plate. If the pipe is too slack then it will affect the efficiency of the extraction process and could cause a buildup of mould.
The final job before actually getting everything fixed in place is to get a power supply in place for the hood fan and light. Either of the 2 options above should be fine, so it really comes down to which is the most convenient, but in most cases, the fused spur option will probably be the one to go for.
If you have good access within your loft area, then locating a power supply to spur from should not be an issue. When it comes to the actual electrical work itself, before you do any work what so ever, make sure that any circuits you are working in are isolated and not live! More information on working with electricity safely can be found in our electrical safety project here. This is a new socket that runs off of an existing circuit. For a full explanation of how to wire a spur socket, see our project page here and also check out our project on radial circuits as this also explains the process.
It is important that you read the two projects above, as together they run through the correct and safe procedure for getting the power supply prepared for your new hood.
One point to note is that as we are only powering a light and a relatively low power fan, we can safely use 1mm or 1. In the event that you do not have a hood that runs all the way up to the ceiling, having an unsightly wire flapping around in the empty space may be rather less than desirable.
This process involves cutting a small channel about 20mm wide and mm deep in the wall that the wire will run down. Once the wire is in place, the channel is filled in with a simple filler or cement mix that then hides the wire from sight. For a full explanation of the rules and steps involved in cutting and filling a chase, see our project here.
Give your second pair of hands a shout for some help again and between you, get the hood and duct section up in place on the wall, aligned with your fixing points. If your particular cooker hood features a hanging bracket setup in terms of the fixings, hang the fixing points of the hood on to the brackets. This will now provide some support while you get the additional fixings secured.
Start with those fixings on or nearest the actual hood section and get these secured to provide some support to the base area and then get any others secured. Your hood and bottom section of duct should now be fixed securely in place. Next, connect up your power wire to the hood in accordance to the manufacturers instructions. Again, before you do anything, make sure the power to the circuit your working on is isolated and your new wire is not live!
With the power connected, turn the circuit on at the point of isolation at the consumer unit or fuse box and test both the fan and the light to make sure they both work as expected. Both should feature a mm 4 inch circular aperture that is designed to take mm PVC or aluminium ducting. If you can, go for the PVC type as this is a little less prone to tearing than the aluminium, plus the aluminium tends to create an echo effect within the pipe when the fan is running, creating unnecessary noise.
As we did above, secure one end of the duct to the top of the hood using cable ties and run the rest of the pipe up to the connection on the inner wall plate.
As before, get the pipe as taught as possible, removing as many creases as possible and then secure it to the inner wall plate. Before moving on to our final task, just check the joins to make sure they are secure and do not move.
You should have the brackets or fixings already in place from the steps above, but if not, now is the time to get them on the wall. Refer to the manufacturer instructions for how this should be done if they are unique to the hood itself. In most cases the top cover section of your cooker hood should slip over the bottom section with a bit of an overlap.
This is to allow you a little height adjustment to compensate for the many differing ceiling heights. With some systems, the top section will in fact slide down inside the bottom section, this is something to be aware of. Check your instructions for exactly how it should fit together. You should now be pretty much done. Installing a cooker hood and ventilation ducting is a relatively straight forward job as long as you take your time and plan everything out.
As we have mentioned, ensure you stay safe at all times when working with electricity, see our project above for more help and advice. All project content written and produced by Mike Edwards , founder of DIY Doctor and industry expert in building technology. Find a tradesman now! We love feedback on our DIY tutorials it helps us to make them the best they possibly can be so if you have any comments you would like to share with us, click the button below and let us know.
Skip to primary navigation Skip to main content Skip to primary sidebar Skip to footer Main navigation. Search this website. Blog DIY Competitions. Twitter Facebook Pin It Buffer. Project Page Menu. Pan on a hob producing lots of steam and water vapour This process can be as simple as opening a window, but generally involves the installation of an extractor fan or cooker hood and extractor with any associated ducting. Why do you Need Ventilation in Kitchens and Bathrooms? Ventilation and Extraction in Kitchens Firstly an obvious one — open some windows.
Next, and in all honesty probably the best and most common route is to install a cooker hood. A cooker hood in place above a gas hob When the fan is switched on, is sucks all the steam generated by any items cooking or boiling below up, upwards through one or more ducts or sections of pipework to a place where it can be vented externally.
Installing a Cooker Hood In terms of the complexity of this job, if you have a good grounded knowledge of DIY and basic electrics then this should be no trouble at all. Push the duct cap onto one end of the duct and then insert the duct into the wall, with the cap facing toward you. The duct should reach your cooker hood exhaust opening.
If not, you will need to purchase a longer duct. You may need to have the duct go around a wall stud if it is in your way, using duct tape to seal the joints. Fasten the duct cap to the exterior wall with screws.
Apply silicon caulk all around where the duct cap and the wall meet. Turn off circuit breaker to the kitchen. Attach electric cable to your cooker hood from a nearby junction box or receptacle through the hole in the wall.
An extension cable may be needed if the wall cable is too short. Strip the cable sheathing to expose the wires, using electrical clamp and pass the cable through the electrical knockout on your cooker hood.
Have your assistant hold the cooker hood in place while you secure it by driving screws into nearby cabinets or wall studs. Splice the black wire from the power source to the black lead, the white wire to the white fixture lead, and the ground wire to the green lead.
Attach a color-coded wire cap on the exposed lead of each spliced wire. Tuck the wires into place before replacing the electrical box cover. Cooker hood will go through a pitched roof immediately above the hood - not enough room to run it horizontally through the wall.
We have agreed to buy a lovely but in need of TLC 3 bed Victorian house. However the owner was honest about struggling with a I had an existing small kitchen refitted 5 years ago. There was no extraction hood in the old kitchen which steamed up quickly Ask a tradesman.
Hi, I am looking for replacing my existing recirculating cooker hood, and installing a new ducted cooker hood to my detached house. I am in the Durham area Thank you for your advice. Like 4.
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